Ulysse Nardin Review: Marine Annual Chronograph (513-22)

Discussion in 'Watch Reviews' started by colemanitis, May 17, 2011.

  1. colemanitis

    colemanitis

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    Ulysse Nardin Marine Annual Chronograph (513-22)

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    Introduction

    While I've only owned this Ulysse Nardin Marine Annual Chronograph (ref. 513-22) for a couple of months, it has been in my family since it was purchased new in 2006. It was originally purchased by my father-in-law while we were vacationing in Las Vegas during my 30th birthday. The watch was purchased on my actual 30th birthday, which makes it even that much more special to me! :thumbsup: My father-in-law wore it daily for a couple of years before he lost interest and stopped wearing it. :crying: After a year or two of it sitting in the bottom of a drawer, I finally convinced him to sell it to me. :happy:

    I hope that you enjoy reading this review as much as I enjoyed writing it. :cheers:

    The Dial

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    The dial is beautifully laid out. :worship: There are several complications on this watch and UN has done a superb job laying them out so that everything is legible and very easy to read. The dial itself is black in color and has a matt finish, which elimates reflections completely. The silver colored Arabic numerals have a matt finish and are very large - this helps to un-complicate a very complicated dial. 12 luminous markers, one for each hour, have been applied to the dial for low-light viewing. A date window is featured below the 12:00 marker and above the center of the dial. Two chronograph sub-dials are displayed, one at the 6:00 position (minutes) and the other at the 9:00 position (hours). These two chrono sub-dials are only used when the chronograph function has been activated. The UN logo is modestly displayed between 2:00 and 3:00 positions on the dial. Last, but not least, is the month window. Not very many watches display the month, but this one does! Look just between the 4:00 and 5:00 hour markers. Nice and subtle!

    The Hands

    The matt finished minute and hour hands perfectly match the silver color of the Arabic numerals on the dial. These two hands are elegantly styled and are some of the most beautiful that I've personally seen. The hour and minute hands have an ample amount of lume applied which makes reading the time in the dark easy to do. The two smaller chronograph hands have been painted with a glossy red paint. The red pops off of the dial and really adds to the overall look of the watch. Lume has also been applied to the small chrono hands to aid visibility during low-light conditions. The larger, sweeping chrono hand has a two-tone paint scheme. Primarily, this hand has been painted glossy white, however, gloss red paint has been applied to the tip of the seconds hand, which matches the chrono hands perfectly. No lume was applied to the longer, sweeping chrono hand. This watch doesn't have a traditional seconds hand. :loupe:

    The Crystal

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    The crystal is made of synthetic sapphire, like most other high quality modern watches. The crystal has anti-reflective (AR) coating applied to both the inside and the outside of the crystal. Special care should be taken with this crystal as the outer AR coating isn't 100% scratch resistant. If you scratch the outer AR coating it'll give the appearance that your crystal is scratched as well. :yikes: The crystal protrudes approximately 1mm from the top of the case, similar to that of a Rolex crystal. This crystal is excellent at eliminating those pesky reflections, which would otherwise obstruct a clear view of that beautiful dial. The crystal is perfectly flat.

    The Case

    The case is made of highly polished stainless steel (SS).This watch has a 40mm size case, which many people believe is the ideal size for a wrist watch. The lugs are nice and thick as is the entire case. This is not a dainty watch... it commands quite a presence while sitting atop the wrist. :worship: The serial number is stamped onto a small plate, which is then screwed to the 9:00 side of the case with two very small blue screws - a nice touch I think! :thumbsup: At the 3:00 position lies the winding crown, which adjusts the time, date, month, and also can be used to manually wind the movement, if needed. At the 2:00 position sits one of the chrono pushers. This particular pusher is used to start and stop the chrono function. Another pusher is located at the 4:00 position. This pusher is used to reset the chrono function and to return all chrono hands to their 12:00 positions. Both pushers and the winding crown should be screwed down when not in use. The case isn't fully water resistant unless the crown and pushers are screwed down tight. The case is water resistant up to 100 meters.

    The Caseback

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    The caseback is a thing of beauty and is made of titanium! Engraved into the caseback are the years and cities in which Ulysse Nardin won Gold Medals for watchmaking. 18 gold medals are represented and are beautifully engraved into the titanium caseback. The caseback is secured to the case by 6 small blue screws.

    The Movement

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    [video=youtube;qxz8Fla5qCM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxz8Fla5qCM[/video]

    The SS case houses an ETA chrono movement with a calendar/big date module developed by Dubois-D├ępraz. Ulysse Nardin refers to this movement as the UN-51. The UN-51 is a self-winding movement and has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. It ticks (sweeps) at a blistering 28,800 beats per hour! It's quite a complicated piece of machinery! :worship: What fascinates me most about this movement is that the date only needs to be manually adjusted once every year - the transition between February and March. For all of the other months, the movement "knows" when there are only 30 days in a month. At the end of a 30 day month, instead of advancing to "31" like most other watches do, this watch advances to "1". :worship: Because of this, the date should only need to be manually adjusted once every year, assuming that you don't let the power reserve run down resulting in the watch coming to a full stop.

    View Setting Instructions (3 MB)

    The Strap

    [video=youtube;Hu3JHQ3iT28]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hu3JHQ3iT28[/video]

    [video=youtube;rCUJLi7CaGE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCUJLi7CaGE[/video]

    My particular UN came with a rubber strap, instead of a SS bracelet or a leather strap. This same watch is sold with a SS bracelet or leather strap, if you prefer. The rubber strap is made of excellent quality and is extremely strong, yet flexible. Each side of the strap has one titanium link with the UN logo engraved into them. The rubber strap comes with a titanium deployant buckle which is very nice and operates extremely smoothly. One major downside to the rubber strap is that it must be cut to fit - you read that right - cut to fit. :banghead: The strap can only be made smaller, not larger, so be sure to have it sized properly. When sizing, make sure you allow enough room for those hot and sticky days when the wrist tends to swell a bit. Cutting the strap is a major concern for "watch flippers" since they know that they'd like to sell the piece in the future. If the strap is cut, then it likely won't fit the next owner properly. This isn't a concern of mine since I plan on wearing this watch for the next 50 years. I'll have gone though many straps in that amount of time. :thumbsup:

    The Packaging

    My father-in-law didn't save every accessory, but he saved the important ones, the boxes and the guarantee card! :dance: The outer cardboard box is a nice navy blue with applied gold logo at the top. The inner box, the box that houses the watch, is extremely nice. It reminds me of the solid wood boxes that Panerai watches come in. It also has the UN logo, which is displayed on the front of the box. Very nice, very solid, and very shiny! Well done in the box department UN! :thumbsup: My UN came with a plastic warranty card (similar to a credit card) but I've seen other UN watches that have come with a paper guarantee/certificate. Don't worry about which one you have, the important thing is that you have one!

    Model Variations

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    The Marine Annual Chronograph is also offered with a silverized dial and blue hands w/ SS case (ref. 513-22-7). For the gentleman with deeper pockets, an 18 ct rose gold version (ref. 516-22) is also available. :worship:

    Servicing a Ulysse Nardin

    Expect to pay at least $600 to have this particular watch serviced at a Ulysse Nardin service center. Replacement parts (dial, hands, crystal, etc.) will cost extra. I recently had my UN serviced and the total bill was $1,000 USD. That included a complete overhaul of the movement ($600), new dial ($150), new hands ($100), and new crystal ($150). Add another $100 for tax and return 2-day shipping via UPS. Expect for your watch to be gone for at least 2 months. My watch was away for a total of 11 weeks. :thumbsdown: The first 2 weeks were spent getting the service estimate from UN. Once I received the estimate and gave them my approval it took them 9 more weeks to complete the service. Rolex services their watches in half that time, so IMHO 11 weeks is a very poor turnaround time. :thumbsdown: I found this to be a very painful and slow process. UN desperately needs to improve this entire process. The good news, however, is that when your watch arrives back it will look and operate like a brand new watch. I'm extremely happy with the end product. :thumbsup: The polish is superb, the new parts are flawless, and I've yet to find any QA issues, such as lint under the crystal, which is quite common with other brands. In the end, no one will repair my UN except for UN.

    Overhaul Price List (PDF)

    Conclusion

    In conclusion, I couldn't be happier with this watch. :worship: It provides me with everything that I could ever need from a watch. The time, date, month, chrono functions, 100M water resistance, and drop-dead gorgeous looks! What more could a man ask for.... except for maybe a solid gold case. :lol:

    I hope that you enjoyed my review. Feel free to post comments, ask questions, or correct any mistakes that you found while reading it. :cheers:
  2. RW16610

    RW16610

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    :goodpost: What an excellent review of your Ulysse Nardin, Jeff :thumbsup: Such a great story behind this one and it surely is a keeper to pass on!
  3. Erwin

    Erwin

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    Beautiful review for a beautiful watch:worship:! Great job, Jeff:thumbsup:!
  4. SPACE-DWELLER

    SPACE-DWELLER

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    Brilliant review, Jeff! :thumbsup:

    Thanks for sharing! :goodpost:
  5. Kiwi

    Kiwi

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    Great review, Jeff :worship::goodpost:


    ......When do You post "How to fix them" :thinking::lol:
  6. Vincent65

    Vincent65

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    good review, Jeff, thanks
  7. Pete17

    Pete17

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    :lol::lol::lol:


    Jeff, that is a superb watch review.
    The guys here are posting reviews that take them to a whole new level.:worship:

    Great stuff.
  8. colemanitis

    colemanitis

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    Thanks, guys! I'm glad you enjoyed it. :thumbsup:
  9. Baco Noir

    Baco Noir

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    Great review Jeff! I love that watch. :love: Just amazing how much they fit onto a 40mm dial without making it seem over crowded. :thumbsup:
  10. Goldbug

    Goldbug

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    Excellent review!! :goodpost: I agree, these reviews are getting taken to the next level for sure. :coolanimated:



    John
  11. Six String

    Six String

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    Beautiful watch and great review! I hope to own a UN someday.
  12. colemanitis

    colemanitis

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    Thanks again for the kind words. I'm really glad you guys enjoyed the review. :thumbsup: :cheers:
  13. SSD

    SSD

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    Great review Jeff, and quite well illustrated too! A truly fantastic watch!